Chamonix is the spiritual home of all things extreme. Host of the first Winter Olympics in 1924 and hemmed in by glaciers, this place is dripping in history and the scenery will take your breath away, as will the Aiguille du Midi cable car which transports hordes of skiers from the edge of town up to the start of the famous 24km-long Vallée Blanche run, or the Grands Montets cable car above Argentière if you like your terrain steep and deep. With a motorway connection from Geneva to within a few miles of the resort, extreme skiing has never been so convenient.

A little too convenient, it seems, for some of the local inhabitants. The English have taken over and only want the French to cook, said Bernard Prud‚homme, the outspoken director of Chamonix’s tourist board, who has seen something of a British invasion in recent years. A 70sqm apartment in Chamonix now sells for around E300,000 ˆ about 10 times the average salary in France and property prices in the area have increased 15 per cent per year since 2002, with Brits making up a sixth of the population. Surely that’s good news for the tourist office?

It brings two problems with it. Firstly, English has now become the lingua franca about town. Secondly, the rocketing house prices are excluding many of the locals who have lived in the area all of their lives. Chamonix built its success on the back of the men who came to conquer Mont Blanc, headed in 1786 by Paccard, a local doctor, and Balmat, the founder of a guiding dynasty. Now, more than two centuries later, this 19th-century mountain town is morphing into a 21st-century developer’s dream.

This article is courtesy of Time Out Guides

A selection of books relating to Chamonix

Mont Blanc, at 4,810 meters, is the highest mountain in Western Europe. Nestling some 3,800 meters below Mont Blanc’s summit lies Chamonix. The wildlife here has adapted to the extremes of altitude and the corresponding weather and terrain.

As you progress up the valleys, then up the mountains, past the tree-line and finally towards the barren windswept peaks, you’ll find at each stage a variety of plants and animals that have created a niche for themselves.

Patrolling the skies of Chamonix, high above everything else, are the Bearded Vultures with 3 meter wingspans, one of Europe’s rarest birds of prey. After being reintroduced into the Haute Savoie region, these birds are now successfully breeding and guided tours are available to help you find them.

Chamonix and the department of Haute Savoie are home to a number of raptors, some common and some very rare: Golden Eagles, Honey Buzzards, Eagle Owls, Ospreys, Kestrels, Boreal Owls, Long Eared Owls, Sparrow Hawks, Eurasian Pygmy Owls, Peregrine Falcons, Red Kites and Tawny Owls.

Inhabiting the snowline high up in the mountains (2km to 4.5km), the Alpine Ibex – Latin name Capricorn – was once incredibly rare but has staged a comeback. These wild goats were re-introduced in around 1960 and their figures have now grown to about 7,000 across the country. The male Alpine Ibex can be easily identified, with a body height of about a meter and with curled-back horns that can grow to the same length again!

The females are usually substantially smaller and although they too have horns from birth, they are much smaller. The Alpine Ibex has legendary rock climbing skills. These skills must be put to good use early as large predatory birds, such as the Golden Eagle are known to prey on young Ibex.

Not much lower down at about 200 meters to 3.5km can be found the Alpine Shrew. This tiny creature is probably best seen besides the banks of Alpine streams although its habitat includes rocky mountain slopes,  wooded areas and Alpine clearings.  Although not actually threatened as a species, it is classed as ‘near threatened’, so here’s hoping it clings to survival like it clings on to those rocks!

Between about 1km and 2km you’ll find Chamois, depending on the time of year (they retreat to lower meadows or forests during the cold winter months). Chamois are about half the size of Ibex and can be easily distinguished from them by their horns. Both sexes have relatively small horns which are straight until near the tips where they suddenly jut backwards. Chamois are the creatures whose hides are made into chammy leathers (their conservation status is listed as ‘least concern’).

Mountain Hares, or Snow Hares, as they’re sometimes known, can be found along the tree line during the colder months and higher up in more clement weather. The hares have adapted well to the conditions around Chamonix – their furs change from brown to white in the snow and their feet are larger than those of normal hares, the better to walk across the snow.

The Alpine Marmot is a sort of large burrowing squirrel – indeed it’s the largest squirrel that exists. It can be found at altitudes between about 1km and 3kms. Predated on mainly by foxes and eagles, although they can be hard to spot (not least because they hibernate), you may be able to hear the warning whistles they make when they’ve spotted a threat. If you hear a single whistle, look up because this is the warning sign for a bird of prey. Multiple whistles are used to warn of threats from ground based predators, such as foxes.

The above is just a small sample of the animals that you can see around Chamonix and the surrounding areas, but it’s probably also worth mentioning one or two that you won’t find and one or two to watch out for!

The Eurasian Lynx, the largest of the Lynx, have been reintroduced to France. However, the likelihood of you actually seeing one around Chamonix is very low indeed. These creatures are incredibly rare and keep the sort of low profile that a secret agent would be proud of. Although a lynx was found run over near Chamonix, the only chance you have of seeing any sign of these creatures is by coming across a kill they’ve made.

You’re not going to see any bears. There are about a dozen bears in France (Brown Bears) but they live in the Pyrenees and there’s so few of them that some have names. These are probably the only large (wild) animals in Europe that can kill a person outright but, as I say, that’s not going to happen. If perchance you do cross the path of a Brown Bear in France, the advice is to play dead.

Wolves do exist in France. It’s a precarious existence but they are fighting back for a home here. These lovely creatures are no threat to you if you come across them. In fact, people who actively seek them out need to be careful not to scare them off. The active wolf population in France is relatively close to Chamonix, Cézanne’s Provence and Mont Blanc, but you’ll be lucky to see one. Here’s hoping they cling to survival.

Processionary Caterpillars might not seem like a threat but then, fur is normally a comforting sort of thing. Not in the case of the Processionary Caterpillar. The hairs on it are not nice – they can burn your skin and several people a year die from anaphylactic shock when they come into contact with them. It’s probably no more dangerous than the sting of a bee or wasp but don’t go stroking the things.

Finally…snakes. You’re most likely to see snakes in the middle of summer soaking up some rays. The main types you’ll come across are grass snakes and vipers. Some can get pretty big although these tend to be the grass snakes (which although not poisonous, can bite). If you notice a vertical pupil rather than a round one then keep well clear, it’s a venomous snake. In fact, if you’re close enough to see the snake’s pupils, you’re too close! Give them all a wide berth and watch out especially if you’re walking in a rocky area where they might be basking.

Just how dangerous is Chamonix? Where are the most deaths?

We’ve compiled data from this Pistehors research. Just taking figures from the Haute Savoie section, here’s the Chamonix area death stats from 2002-2009.

Death by Location

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Death by Type

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Deaths over time in the Mont Blanc Massif

Can you imagine yourself in the Chamonix valley during the glorious months of summer when the sun shines brightly and warms you as you hike, bike, golf, paraglide, climb mountains, go canyoning or play tennis?

And in those summer months, the mountains stand majestically and tower over all who walk or ride beneath their brownish-black mass. Seemingly forever covered in a serene layer of pure white snow, they never cease to amaze even the most experienced and well traveled visitors to the Chamonix valley because they are just that beautiful and awe inspiring.

Coupled with the lush summer vegetation, flowers of all colors and sizes and the forests full of tall, green trees, summer sports in Chamonix are the finest in the world.

Hiking, trekking or walking in the summer months is a real treat when doing so in the Chamonix valley. This is because the valley boasts beautiful walking/hiking weather with clear, crisp, clean air, the soaring rocky peaks of the Alps, dark green pine trees all around you as well as the fascinating sight of glaciers gleaming in the summer sun.

Rock climbing is spectacular in the Chamonix valley thanks to the craggy, rocky makeup of the Alps, and Gaillands is Chamonix’s favorite town crag. This is a must for all visiting climbers as it features easy grades as well as grades up to 7b. It is also well-protected, south facing gneiss rock. This location features a coffee bar and parking area.

Paragliding in the Chamonix valley is a truly unforgettable experience. This is because, when paragliding from atop the Grands Montets, you realize that this is one the worlds finest paragliding locations. For more experienced pilots, the Grand Montets are heaven when at their peak flying conditions. For example, cloud bases of 4000 metres send pilots thermaling over such picturesque scenery as the mountains of L’Aiguille Verte, Le Chardonnet and Les Drus. Restitution paragliding following Les Bec Rouges and the Pas de Chevre is also attained by an evening flight from Les Grands Montets.

If mountain biking is your cup of tea, then Vallorcine will provide you with wonderful trails to ride on. The Buet-Loriaz trail is steep, 4×4 trail which zig-zags its way up 800 metres on the valleys south side. Although ending at a somewhat un-rideable area, you can walk your bike for another 200 metres or so up to the Chalet de Loriaz and take a picnic/rest stop. The trip takes around 1 hour from Buet to the Chalet. It is advanced riding, but you will be rewarded with spectacular views of the valley and the mountains in all of their glory. There is a 4×4 trail heading up the mountainside located behind the Valloricne train station. As you ascend up the trail, you will come upon the halfway point-the chairlift station. Turn left on the trail to proceed over to La Jeux Switzerland, or turn right on the trail to head towards the Col des Posettes. Absolutely breathtaking views of the Chamonix valley are had from this locale.

There are also some great trails above Les Houches, and you can take your bike up into the mountains on the Belle Vue cable car.

For those interested in water sports, the Chamonix valley provides them with rafting, canyoning, hydrospeed and kayaking. Rafting is a great white-knuckle ride, and the Giffre and Arve rivers are two popular rivers that provide great rides. As long as you can swim, it is worth trying. Trips include short 3-hour excursions to full day runs, complete with a picnic. Canyoning at Barberine is a great experience. Located past Vallorcine and close the Swiss border are the canyons of Giettroz and Barberine. Excellent for groups and families, these canyons are only a 20-minute walk away. A local guide even provides midnight descents using head torches to light the way. Hydrospeeding, also known as riverboarding to North Americans or white water sledging to people in the southern hemisphere, is white water swimming. Many rafting companies in the valley offer this sport. They provide you with crash hats, wetsuits, flippers and a plastic block you can hold on to for protection and buoyancy. Kayaking in the valley is very good, indeed. Locations to kayak in are the Giffre (a medium grade 3 locale), the Dora Baltea (ranging in difficulty but topping out at a grade of 6), and the Dranse which also provides a range of kayaking levels to choose from.

Golf fanatics will love the local course in the Chamonix valley because it boasts excellent facilities and high standards. Situated next to Les Praz village, it was constructed in 1934. Consisting originally of 4 holes, it was reopened on July 20th 1935 with a total of 9 holes completed. And again, on September 26th 1982, the course was reopened with a new total of 18 holes. This golf course was designed by Trent Jones, Sr.

Tennis enthusiasts will be happy to know that there are two locations within the Chamonix valley area that feature both tennis and squash facilities-Argentiere and Chamonix.

Not far from the Chamonix valley await some of Europe’s finest and most diverse cultures and attractions. There are pristine lakes located at the foot of the snow-drenched Alps, and ancient old towns with awe inspiring Chateaus. If you enjoy music, there is a world-renowned jazz festival every year in Montreux. And who can forget skiing or snowboarding when visiting a region that contains the Alps? Europe’s finest ski resorts and mountains are located here. Lets discover why this region is so popular the whole world around.

Montreux is a quaint little town on the banks of Lake Geneva. While the town may be small in size, it hosts many large festivals throughout the year. The Freddie Mercury Montreux Memorial Day is an annual event that takes place yearly on the first weekend in September. Freddie Mercury was the lead singer of the British band Queen. And, although the band was from England, Freddie was actually born in Montreux. The most famous festival in Montreux is the jazz festival that has been held there every year since 1967. The festival lasts about two weeks in total, and draws an audience of over 200,000 people each year. Although the festival originally began with jazz performances, it has gone through quite a metamorphosis and now features almost all types of music in its lineup. The casino where the festival originally began burned down, supposedly by a Frank Zappa fan with a flare gun, and this occurrence gave the band Deep Purple inspiration for their song, “Smoke on the Water.” Now, the jazz festival includes many Brazilian acts, and such legends as Santana, Eric Clapton, Herbie Hancock, Stevie Ray Vaughn and Van Morrison have graced the stage.

Aosta is a small and picturesque city located in the Italian Alps, roughly 110 kilometers north of Turin. This city is home to many ancient and historical landmarks. The Arch of Augustus was created in 35 BC in order to celebrate a Roman troops victory over the Salassi. There is also a Roman theater that was built during Augustus reign, which is 22 meters tall and can accommodate 4,000 people. The Cathedral of Aosta was built in the 4th century, and then reconstructed in the 11th century as an homage to the Madonna. One of the more evocative attributes of the Romanesque-Gothic Sant’Orso is its cloister, an ancient area that is accessible through a hall on its left side. This work was a dedication to Ursus of Aosta. Another amazing spectacle in Aosta is the Roman walls with their 20 towers. Some of the more fascinating names of the towers are Tour du L’epreux, or Tower of the Leper, named after a leper was actually imprisoned there. And built over a Roman bastion was the Tower of Bramafan. The word Bramafan translates into “He who screams for hunger.”

Lake Geneva is a beautiful and pristine lake located on the border of France and Switzerland. In fact, 40% of the lake belongs to France, and 60% belongs to Switzerland. The lake is also the second largest in Europe. Many exciting activities are possible on Lake Geneva. You can water ski, wake board, go rowing, scuba diving, sailing and wind surfing. The area between Vevey and Lausanne is referred to as Lavaux, which is world renowned for its hilly landscape and rich vineyards.

Vallorcine is an unspoiled gem. This little village is a short 20 kilometers away from the Chaminoux valley area, and is only one of a handful of fairly secret or unknown resorts left here. The trip itself is worth it just to save you the aggravation of waiting in long lines at the other Chamonix resorts. It is very plausible to walk through the village for some time and never cross paths with another soul. That is why you can refer to Vallorcine as an unspoiled gem. Because it is not over crowded, it doesn’t have long lines for you to wait in, and the town only really consists of a few hotels and restaurants.

Annecy is an extremely beautiful city located in the Rhone Alps area of southern France. The city sits on the banks of Lake Annecy, and is home to many historical structures and pieces of art. The Palais de L’Isle, also known as the old prison, is the towns symbol and one of Frances most photographed monuments. The Chateau d’Annecy, which was originally a home for the Counts of Geneva, is now home to the Art and History Conservatory of Annecy and the Regional Office of the Alpine Lakes. Another personal cathedral turned into an art gallery is the Cathedral of Saint Pierre, which now houses an artwork collection as well as many Baroque pieces. And finally, the European Gardens were created in 1863, and are an area where people can come and take in the surroundings of the garden and view their rich, lush vegetation.

There are also a few other noteworthy ski and snowboarding resorts in the Chamonix valley region. First off is Le Domaine de Balme. This area, accessible through the Vallorcine and Le Tour villages, offers two mountainsides of skiing or boarding. The Vallorcine side allows you to ski along the border of Switzeralnd on pistes lined with beautiful green trees. The Charamillion side offers you gentle, wide open skiing while overlooking the Chamonix valley. Lastly is the Les Planards ski resort. Only a few minutes from town, it offers up perfect runs for newbies to intermediate level skiers and boarders alike.

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Les Houches is a small traditional alpine village, just a few kilometres outside Chamonix. It is a ski resort in its own right, and offers a diverse range of skiing, including some of the best tree skiing in the area. It has its own cable car (the Bellevue), and the ski lifts at Le Prarion have recently been upgraded to a faster more comfortable system.

Skiing is often possible in Les Houches when the weather in Chamonix makes skiing difficult. It is Les Houches where the famous Kandahar Chamonix World Cup event is actually held.

If you are planning a trip to Chamonix do consider Les Houches, as it has different things to offer than Chamonix – it is a lot quieter yet you are still ideally placed in the valley to access other ski areas. Les Houches is also generally slightly cheaper than Chamonix, though there are still luxury chalets to be found in the area.

There are several hotels in Les Houches, with the Hotel Slalom probably offering the most luxurious hotel accommodation in the village, as well as a recently opened bar. Tracey is a wonderful host. Other hotels include the Hotel Auberge Beau Site.

Nightlife in Les Houches is obviously not the same as Chamonix, but fun can be had in Les Houches – thought it is probably better suited to families who do not want the hustle and bustle of Chamonix.

In the centre of Les Houches near the church is the excellent Le Delice, offering a great selection of international food, and a well stocked bar. Just across the road from here there is a small hut selling excellent takeaway pizza. There are also several traditional french restaurants to be found in the village.

There are a selection of french bars throughout Les Houches, probably the most lively being the ‘Pull Up’ bar near the Bellevue cable car. The ‘Relax’ at the opposite end of town is worth a visit too. Mostly a french crowd, with friendly staff who are eager to please.

There’s also an indoor climbing wall in Les Houches, where you can hire gear if you need to.

Various skiing shops are dotted around the lengthy village, probably the most friendly staff are to be found at Cyprien Sports, a short walk above the Bellevue cable car.

Bus services between Chamonix and Les Houches are regular, with the journey taking twenty minutes or so. If you have a lift pass you can travel for free.

Les Houches has two decent sized supermarkets – the biggest being Super U at the Chamonix end of the village. Shopi can be found in the centre, and is slightly smaller than Super U, though well stocked.

Les Houches is excellently positioned for walking and mountaineering, with many walking trails and mountain bike (VTT) trails. In the summer you can take mountain bikes up the cable car in Les Houches and ride downhill all day. The Belle Vue cable car also gives you access to the Nid d’Aigle and further up, the Tête Rousse hut – one way to go up Mont Blanc. Mountain views around Les Houches are just as impressive as Chamonix, if not more so.

Check out this live webcam view of the Chamonix Valley.

Image courtesy of webcam-montblanc.com

Note: during darkness the last daylight image is displayed

One of Chamonix’s many attractions is how easy it is to reach: you can wake up in London and be on the slopes of Le Brèvent by lunchtime. Below are details of the various ways of getting yourself to the mountains.

Overland to Chamonix

The most common starting place for any journey by car to the Alps is Calais. You can reach Calais from the UK by the Eurotunnel or ferry. It is then just under 600 miles (a little over 900km) from Calais to Chamonix, and the journey can be done in 10 hours or less. The journey from Calais takes you east of Paris, through Reims to the mustard town of Dijon (about two-thirds of the way if you want to make an overnight stop along the way).

The final stretch of the journey takes you past the south tip of Lake Geneva (though you never enter Switzerland) on is two-lane motorway (known as the Autroute Blanche). If you are travelling on a Saturday you can expect traffic and delays on this part of the journey. Chamonix Mont-Blanc is clearly signed and you barely need to make a turn, so it is very difficult to go wrong.

There are four péage (toll) stops on the on the route south through France, for which you collect a ticket as you enter the motorway and hand it in as you leave. You can pay with cash or by credit card.

If the scenery around Lake Geneva tempts you into taking a detour through Switzerland, you will have to buy a vignette, a windscreen sticker which acts like a motorway pass (the equivalent of the French péage). It costs around CHF40, and is good for the duration of the year in which you buy it. If you haven’t got one before you get there, you can buy one at the border control.

There are two alternatives to the standard ferry crossing to Calais. The first is with Norfolkline to Dunkerque – often quieter (and less prone to lorry strikes!) than the Calais services. The second is SpeedFerries.com – a new fast ferry service to Boulogne. SpeedFerries sells tickets on a similar basis to the budget airlines – the earlier you buy, the less you pay. Eurolines run a direct coach service between London and Chamonix 3 times a week in each direction. The journey takes about 19 hours and you travel overnight.

The classic way to reach the Alps from the UK by train is on the snowtrain or the Eurostar overnight service. In theory travelling this way gives you more time in resort – 8 days instead of the usual 6. It’s an excellent service if you live in London and are skiing in the 3 Vallées or the Espace Killy, but it doesn’t work out so well for a skiing holiday in Chamonix. For both these services the only stops in the Alps are Moutiers and Bourg-St. Maurice – both some distance from Chamonix.

There isn’t a direct train service to Chamonix from either of these stations, so you have to complete your journey is by car, which takes at least 2 hours. If you are still undeterred, be sure to book well ahead, as the services become full months in advance. If you’re intent on travelling by train, the TGV (the French intercity service) takes you more directly to Chamonix – or at least to Annecy, from where you take a SNCF train on the Saint Gervais/Le Fayet-Vallorcine line, which stops in Chamonix. There is a direct service for Annecy from the Gare de Lyon in Paris. The total journey from Paris to Annecy takes approximately 5 hours. To get to Paris, you can either fly or take the Eurostar.

By Air

The nearest airport to Chamonix is Geneva. You can fly to Geneva from any major airport in England. Check out flights to Geneva at Skyscanner.

Once you have safely landed in Geneva, you can get to Chamonix in one of five ways. As Chamonix is only 60 miles (90kms) from Geneva, getting there by car is a real option. You can hire a car at Geneva airport by booking over the phone, on the internet, or when you arrive at the airport. Your car will have the necessary equipment required to legally travel on French roads such as an emergency triangle but you will need to specifically request snow chains and a roof box if you want them.

From the airport follow the green signs to France – you will reach customs within about 15 minutes. Once you are in France, join the A40 heading south-east and follow signs to Chamonix Mont-Blanc. The two péage stops on the motorway (the Autoroute Blanche) cost about 3 euros each.

Public buses run every day between Geneva airport and the train station in Chamonix. There are 4 services each way on weekdays and 5 each way at weekends. The service is much like the National Express, and the journey takes just over 2 hours.

You could also arrange a transfer – there are now several companies operating this route during high season.

Search for cheap flights:

In medieval times the Matterhorn in Switzerland was believed to contain a ruined city inhabited by the souls of avalanche victims.

We know more about the surface of the moon than we do about the centre of an avalanche.

Montroc in the French Alps was hit in 1999 by a 60mph avalanche made up of 40,000 tons of snow. Twelve people were killed.

90% of people caught in avalanches start them themselves.

In world war one the Germans realised that avalanches could be set off by shooting, and then used as weapons. They used this tactic to great effect and thousands of troops were killed.

In 2002 the Russian village of Karmadon was entirely wiped out when an avalanche crashed into the huge Kolka Glacier, breaking the glacier free and sending it hurtling down the mountain at over 100mph. This was the largest ever recorded ice avalanche – some scientist believe this could have been as a result global warming.

There was a town in the USA once called Wellington. One winter night, whilst two trains lay trapped in the Cascade mountains because of the snowfall, a huge avalanche struck and swept the trains down the mountain. Wellington was destroyed completely by the avalanche and has never been rebuilt. Wellington avalanche – Wikipedia

In 1951 the whole of the Alps was suffering the “Winter of Terror” when over 200 people were killed as a direct result of avalanches. The huge amount of tragedies led to new studies of avalanches and avalanche safety.

In August 1947 a Lancaster bomber was making a routine flight from Buenos Aires to Santiago. It disappeared and no sign was found of it until in 2000 when an engine and body parts were found near Mount Tupangaco in the Andes. It had crashed into a mountain, creating an avalanche which engulfed the plane, also sucking it deep into the glacier, over time until the glacier spat it out, piece by piece.

The Austrian village of Galtur was destroyed by a huge avalanche in 1999. The town was believed to be in an avalanche safe area – this incident lead to new studies and findings in the science of avalanches including the discovery of the ’soltation layer’, which scientists believe can ‘turbo charge’ an avalanche.

On the 31st May, 1970 the Peruvian villages of Yungay and Ranrahirca were entirely destroyed. 47,194 people were killed by a huge mud, rock and glacial avalanche which was half a mile across and destroyed everything in its path.

Chamonix has been hit badly by an avalanche before:

For more information about avalanches check out Henry’s Avalanche Talks