Grade F+

This is an enjoyable and popular climb with a good viewpoint. Snowy slopes lead to a fore-summit called the Pain du Sucre, then the route follows a rocky ridge to the summit of Mont Tondu.

Length of climb 5 hours to summit, 5 hours descent

High season July to September

Equipment – axe, crampons, harness, slings, ice screws, quickdraws, rope

Access

From the Conscrits hut, reached from the village of Cugnon near Les Contamines.

Route

Day 1:

To the Conscrits hut.

From Les Contamines, go to the small village of Cugnon and park.

Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tré-la-Tête hut (1970m). 2 hours.

From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tré-la-Grande seracs. Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.

Follow blue paint marks to climb to the hut. There are fixed ropes and hand lines in sections. 3 hours from Tré-la-Tête hut.

Day 2:

The route goes up the snowfield coming down from the Col des Chasseurs. Then climb through the rocky band on the right hand side and up easy slabs and scree to the snow just below the col. Climb the large rock section on the left and up the snowfield to a narrow rock ridge. Follow this exposed ridge to the summit of the Pain du Sucre.

From there continue along exposed, rocky ridge southwards to summit Mont Tondu.

Descent

Descend by the arête which leads to Col du Tondu then head in the direction of the Lacs Jovets on the right. Keep rightwards to find the path along the lakes and from there, head towards La Balme. Pass the refuge Nant-Blanc and finally reach the parking at Cugnon via the G.R.

Grade PD
On the south edge of the Vallée Blanche, the Tour Ronde provides some of the finest views of the Brenva face of Mont Blanc, the south face of Mont Maudit and the towers of the Grand Capucin.

The southeast arête is excellent mixed climbing with exposed sections along the granite ridge, various obstacles to climb or maneuver around, easy snow slopes and a final rock climb to the summit.

An excellent introduction to Alpine climbing.

Length of climb – 3 hours from hut to summit

High season – July to September

Equipment – axe, crampons, harness, slings, ice screws, quickdraws, rope

Access – from Torino hut

Route

Day 1:

Hut is accessed from the Aiguille du Midi télépherique station and crossing the Vallée Blanche via the télecabine to Pt Helbronner.

Day 2:

It is about an hour from the hut to the foot of the climb over the snowy slopes of the Col des Flambeaux, around the base of the Aiguille de Toule and up the glacier to the Col d’Entrèves.

Follow the snowy SE ridge on its right hand side for a way and then the route crosses to the left side finally reaching a snowy saddle (Col Freshfield). From there, climb the rock ridge leading to easy snow slope and finally more rock to the spectacular summit block. 3 hours from the hut.

Descent

It is possible to climb directly to Col Freshfield from the glacier but this is more usually the descent route.

Head back down the ridge and then bear left over mixed ground leading to the steep snow slope, bergschrund and glacier.

Grade AD

This is an excellent peak with airy climbing on high quality rock with a fantastic 360 view from the top.

An early start is not necessary as it is in shade in the morning, though you may want to beat the crowds.

There are fixed ropes up most of the climb.

Length of climb - 4½ to 5½ hours from the hut

High season – June to September

Equipment – axe, crampons, rope, harness, slings, nuts, quickdraws

Access – from Torino hut

Route

Day1:

Hut is accessed from the Aiguille du Midi télépherique station and crossing the Vallée Blanche via the télecabine to Pt Helbronner.

Day 2:

From the hut, cross the glacier passing right of point 3615m to the base of the shoulder underneath the Dent du Géant. Go up the snowy couloir to the col on the left and then follow the ridge on right leading up to the face. Climb this in much the same line. As the angle lessens near the top, a large pillar can be seen.

Go around this on either side to the snowy arête beyond. This leads to a large rock called the Salle à Manger. Climb a large flake to the left of this and the slab above.

Traverse left here for 10m or so then climb about 30m up a couloir to a terrace on the left. From here, fixed ropes are on the exposed slabs leading to the SW summit.

To reach the NE summit, descend a short chimney and climb facing wall up to the top.

Descent

By abseil down the south face to the Salle à Manger.

Grade: F (facile – easy)

Main difficulties lie in routefinding on the upper sections of the Tour glacier.

Height gain

Day 1 : Col de Balme to Albert Premier hut 600m
Day 2 : Albert Premier hut to Aiguille du Tour 840m

This route is at the very eastern border of the Mont Blanc range, straddling the french/swiss border offering great views over the Trient glacier and Valaisan Alps to the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa in the distance.

The peak itself lies opposite the beautiful Aiguille du Chardonnet on the Tour glacier.

The route follows the Tour glacier to the sunny side of the Trient basin. The last 100m of the climb is on good granite.

High season

July, August to mid-September

Access

From the village of Le Tour, take the Charamillon télécabine and the Balme chairlift to the Col de Balme.

Route

Day 1 : To the Albert Premier hut

From the top of the lift, follow the well-marked track south.

The trail goes left, overlooking the Tour glacier, then crosses a rocky section which is fairly steep but not difficult.Crampons may be needed for final section up to the hut. 1½ hours.

Day 2: From the hut to the Aiguille du Tour

The track starts behind the hut in an easterly direction.

After about 15 minutes, the Tour glacier is reached. Put on crampons and rope up.

Cross diagonally eastwards keeping in line with the Aiguilles. As it steepens, look for a rocky outcrop on the right hand side called Signal Reilly. Go around this on the uphill side to gain gentle slopes once more. Continue south-east, passing on the left a glacial bay which leads to the Couloir de la Table.

Walk up a snowy bowl, leading to the Col Supérieur du Tour and so to the Trient glacier.

Head north alongside the Purtschellar ridge.

After a steep rise, you will see the Tour peaks. Cross the bergschrund below the gap between the two peaks.

Go up the snow slope to a shoulder below the left hand side of the left peak. From here it is an easy and pleasant rock climb up to the southern summit.

Descent

Same route in reverse.

3 day route

The Aiguille du Tour can be part of a 3 day route which takes in the Tête Blanche also.

Day 1 – go to the Albert Premier hut.
Day 2 – climb the Tête Blanche and go to the Trient hut.
Day 3 – climb the Aiguille du Tour and return to France over the Col Supérieur du Tour.

Albert Premier Hut – 2702M

+33(0)4.50.54.06.20
+33(0)4.50.54.14.36
+33(0)6.70.70.63.77

Argentiere Hut – 2771M

+33(0)4.50.53.16.92
+33(0)6.22.04.25.00

Le Couvercle Hut – 2687M

+33(0)4.50.53.16.94
+33(0)4.50.47.23.99

Envers des Aiguilles Hut – 2523M

+33(0)6.76.52.61.17
+33(0)6.71.09.02.26

Leschaux Hut – 2431M

+33(0)6.99.59.71.67
+33(0)6.73.10.29.47

Le Requin Hut – 2516M

+33(0)4.50.53.16.96
+33(0)4.50.47.21.89

Le Gouter Hut – 3800M

+33(0)4.50.54.40.93
+33(0)4.50.93.90.05

Les Grands Mulets – 3051M

+33(0)4.50.53.16.98
+33 (0)6.72.81.22.08

Tete Rousse Hut – 3167M

+33(0)4.50.58.24.97
+33(0)6.19.02.90.71

Durier Hut – 3358M

+ 33(0)6.89.53.25.10
+33(0)4.76.45.61.30

Les Conscrits Hut – 2580M

+33(0)4.79.89.09.03
+33(0)4.50.58.21.24

Chalet Alpin du Tour – Le Tour – 1453M

+33(0)4.50.54.04.16
+33(0)6.81.86.32.73

Plate Hut – 2032M

+33(0)4.50.93.11.07
+33(0)4.50.93.85.60

Gramusset Hut – Pointe Percée – 2162M

+33(0)4.50.02.40.90
+33(0)4.50.27.09.10

Les Cosmiques Hut – 3613M

+33(0)4.50.54.40.16
+33(0)4.50.54.40.16

Plan de L’Aiguille Hut – 2207M

+33(0)6.65.64.27.53
+33(0)4.50.53.55.60

La Charpoua Hut – 2841M

+33(0)6.87.99.01.66

Montenvers Hut – 1913M

+33(0)4.50.53.87.70
+33(0)4.50.53.12.54

Bellachat Hut – 2152M

+33(0)4.50.53.43.23
+33(0)4.50.53.46.99

La Flegere Hut – 1877M

+33(0)6.03.58.28.14
+33(0)4.50.55.85.88

Lac Blanc Hut – 2352M

+33(0)4.50.53.49.14
+33(0)4.50.47.24.49

Lognan Hut – 2032M

+33(0)6.88.56.03.54

La Pierre a Berard – 1924M

+33(0)4.50.54.62.08
+33(0)4.50.54.63.45

Loriaz Hut – 2020M

+33(0)4.50.54.06.45
+33(0)4.50.54.60.86

Col de Balme Hut – 2191M

+33(0)4.50.54.02.33
+33(0)6.08.32.60.95

Gite D’Alpage de Charamillon – 1850M

+33(0)4.50.54.17.07
+33(0)6.84.16.36.33

Moede Anterne – 1996M

+33(0)4.50.93.60.43
+33(0)4.50.78.02.09

Sales Hut – 1877M

+33(0)4.50.34.47.01

Anterne a Wills Hut – 1807M

+33(0)6.70.63.12.45
+33(0)4.50.34.36.93

Les Fonds Hut – 1368M

+33(0)4.50.34.12.41

Le Grenairon Hut – 1949M

+33(0)4.50.34.47.31
+33(0)4.50.89.41.85

Tre La Tete Hut – 1970M

+33(0)4.50.47.01.68
+33(0)4.50.47.73.44

Le Nid D’Aigle Hut – 2372M

+33 (0)6.86.73.38.45

Plan Glacier Hut – 2730M

+33(0)6.31.66.92.38
+33(0)6.19.30.96.80

Robert Blanc Hut – 2750M

+33(0)4.79.07.24.22
+33(0)6.09.40.21.61
+33(0)4.79.07.23.33

Traverse des Aiguilles Crochues (2840m)

Grade PD+

Length of climb – 150m in 5 pitches. 2-3 hours climbing, 6-7 hour day.

First climbed in 1920, this is a beautiful route in a superb mountain environment. It allows many climbers to experience the wonder of the high altitude Alpine environment for the first time.

The Aiguilles Crochues comprise 3 summits in close succession and are traversed from south to north. The southern summit is at 2840m, the central at 2834m and the northern at 2837m.

It is a sharp airy ridge with amazing views of the Mont Blanc range to the south. It is a scramble/climb on exposed, but easy alpine rock terrain.

High season – mid June to the end of September

Equipment

4 quickdraws, 50m rope, half set of nuts, friends 1+2, 4 slings, helmet, ice axe, crampons may be needed early season.

Access

From the village of Les Praz, take the Flégère téléphérique and then the Index chairlift to 2400m.

Route

From the top of the Index lift, go north following the track in the snow which leads, after 10 minutes, to the base of the climb to the Col des Crochues 2704m.
The route leaves the path on the right then climbs steeply heading slightly left. Helmets are needed here due to rockfall from preceding parties. The upper section is 45-50˚. Go left up the grassy spur, rather than up the loose scree. This leads to a path which takes you to the Col des Crochues. 1 hour.

The climbing begins 60m from the col on the right with a 30m corner leading to a good ledge. From here, fairly easy climbing leads to the line of the arête.

Then descend by abseil 20m and follow a succession of small steps to regain the arête and reach the south summit 2840m. Continue along the arête leading to the north-east summit. The start is fairly narrow to begin with but not difficult as good footholds on the northside and good handholds on the south. Later, the arête widens into a broader path to the summit at 2837m.

Descent

The descent is from the first summit. Climb down the north side across loose rock to the snow. Continue south-east across snow and rock to the path to Lac Blanc. A quick stop at the restaurant for refreshment, then follow the well-marked path back to the Flégère lift.

New to climbing in the Alps? Want to improve your skills but feel the routes here are all A5 , 8a+, run-out, avalanche-prone, big, gnarly, death routes? Well fear not, dear novice… Below is a little information that will help you choose some easy multi-pitch routes in the Valley and give you some good crag areas to start climbing when (a) the weather is poor up high or (b) when you don’t feel like a big route but still want to climb. Most of the routes below are rock oriented, and some mixed. There are also several easy mountaineering routes here in the Valley, but they are too numerous to detail here.

Its first worth noting that no, you don’t have to be Wolfgang Gullich or Ueli Steck to do some really fun and beautiful routes here. Most people who will come to Cham to start their mountain climbing here probably are not 100% utter beginners, and they may have had some experience in climbing at the indoor wall or done some cragging (either single or multi-pitch.) * There are even routes in Cham that are completely bolted (to the joy of some and the disconsolation of others…)

*If you are completely and truly new to climbing, a bigger and committing route is not where you should start unless you actually like, and seek out mental trauma. If you are indeed a total newbie, try going either to a local wall or a local small crag with a knowledgeable and experienced friend or join a course. You’ll need to know how to belay and some basic safety info before getting your teeth into anything outdoors or bigger. If in doubt, go with a friend who has more experience than you and take it conservatively to help avoid potential epics.

A good way to start, if you are visiting here, is to try on your first day some multi-pitches at a local crag like Le Gailland, with its park atmosphere and interesting gneiss rock (Don’t swim in the lake. Apparently there are eels in it.) Or, if you like slabs, try Vallorcine. There are several routes here that have a couple pitches or more, and that are well bolted and available in a range of grades. These kinds of routes can help you iron out any kinks or slow parts between you and your partner that will become painfully obvious on longer routes… (things like: swapping leads, organising your rappells, rope tangles, etc.) The sooner you make sure you can organise your ropework quickly, the sooner bigger and more fun routes are open to you. (A terrific book with useful tips on improving your efficiency and speed in the hills is the Mountaineer’s series’ “Alpine techniques to take you Higher” by Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston. Also “Freedom of the Hills” or even better, The Climbing Handbook by Fyfe et al. Explains everything you ever wanted to know about ropework and technique but were embarassed to ask. Rebuffats 100 best climbs in the Mont Blanc area is gorgeous and gives some great ideas on routes as well.)

The south facing Aiguille Rouges side is a good side of the valleyto start on, as it is often in the sun and is usually bolted. As some of the routes are more run out, it is a great place to start working on placing your trad gear in a safe way (if it all blows, you still have a bolt nearby, and the belays/abseils are often bolted as well.) Routes like Index have some bolts and pins / pitons and are a good way of learning how to use natural protection as a way of moving quickly. You can also place a bit of gear here and there. There are also some routes on the face of L’Index but they are a bit loose at the top, so be aware of moving rock. Also the Traverse Crichues is a good beginners route, and although harder to find and not bolted, it an easy intro to the style of climbing here – and the descent through the snowfield and lunch at the Lac Blanc makes for a great day out. Also, Barberine, just past Vallorcine also has a beautiful multipitch slab crag and a variety of fab routes.

Good routes that you can also practise trad on are on the Aiguille de Gliere (Manu Puliti and Nez Rouges, mostly bolted, save for a couple gear placements if you want, and both go at about f5+). If you are feeling good and moving quickly on the routes, Chapel de Gliere is fun and has an exciting airy ridge (The route is somewhat long, though, so you’ve got to be fairly quick with your climbing and ropework.)

Around the valley there are loads of great areas that are a bit farther afield. It helps to have access to a car to get to lesser climbed routes like the Dalle D’Amone…

Once you are confident on these routes, then you might want to try some routes on the North Facing side of the Valley (the Mont Blanc Side.) Roues like Aiguille De L’M are great beginner / improver routes. (Note the classic route on L’M can be polished and is a long walk in.) Other routes that are great are Nabot Leon on the Blaitiere (approaching from the Midi mid station, you pass the Blaitiere and double back on yourself as there is frequent rockfall if you approach directly – if in doubt, ask at the maison de Montagne for them to show you on a map.) Nabot Leon has fun flakes and a jungle-gym style with the hardest move (at a bolt) as a 6a /+.

If you want to go up higher, the Cosmiques Arete is one of the most beautiful classic mixed climbs you can find. The views are stunning. You must be competent in crampons and know how to self-arrest with your axe, etc. The route is a lot of walking and scrambling on good quality rock with a few harder climbing moves done in crampons (the only “hard” move is near the end, and is about a f5 but offers a big bolt and a sling ladder if you want to use it.)

Tips:

•Older Alpine Grades are often harder than you would think. Rebuffat Routes and older grades from the Michel Piola guides can be under graded by a good amount. Newer Piola routes and routes in the Aiguille Rouges often feel more generous. What is comfortable for you on a single pitch at Stanage will feel very different with a pack, at altitude, after a longer walk-in and amongst several pitches. We’ve seen 7c climbers here fall off of 6cs. A lot, come to think of it.

•work on your ropework and efficiency and speed (in a safe, redundant way, of course!)

•Have a working knowledge of basic elements like abseils and multi-pitch skills. If you are crossing glaciers, know about Glacier travel and crevasse rescue. If you are climbing in winter or at a time where there is an avalanche risk, take a transceiver, shovel and probe and know how to use them before you actually need to use them.

•Often finding the start of a climb is one of the hardest parts of the day. Allow time for this and know how to read a map and use a compass (which is a useful skill anyways.)

•Don’t be afraid to ask local climbers for advice on routes and conditions (but take what they say with a grain of salt, don’t ask the local piss-head or the area’s ego-maniac if you can help it.) The Maison de Montagne staff are knowledgable and very helpful.

•Don’t blindly trust in-situ gear like slings and pitons. They have been know to fail. Check it and don’t be afraid to leave behind a nut, sling or tat if you are in doubt as your life is worth more than £10.

•Find out the weather report – in summer, afternoon thunder storms can come in quickly and lightning takes lives each year. If you are caught out abseiling on a wet rope, remember it is as attractive to lightning as a hairpin and electric socket are to a two year old.

•Find out about routes near to your climb so you can recognise if you get off route or if you have a problem and need an alternative or escape option.

•Learn the means of descent and any alternative descent / escape options (e.g.abseiling off nearby routes or trails or paths close by.)

•Don’t rely on Mountain rescue to save your butt. Try to be self-reliant and make good decisions, even if you are epic-ing. Calling out a rescue costs a lot of time and money and takes the rescuers away from someone who might be dying. (Of course if you are actually in the process of dying, or are pretty sure it might happen shortly, then please ignore last point…)

•Look at the kind of climbing specified in your topo- if it is 6a continuous cracks on trad gear, then it will be a LOT harder than a 6a jug-fest. This is especially true near the Envers hut

•Easier and popular routes can get crowded. If you go early, you are less likely to have to wait in a queue

•Having a couple different guidebooks will be useful as sometimes one will omit important or changed info and sometimes the grades disagree. You can always bring a photocopy of the topo so you don’t have to lug books in your pack.

•If in doubt, always be safe and redundant in every situation. And take your apprenticeship in the mountains conservatively and prudently. Your mum will thank you.

Roues to start on:
Gailland crags
L’Index- the ridge
Grand Floria (Bolted, some are a little run out but bolts are almost always in the places you need it.)
Try in order of difficulty: Athena, Sentier Lumineux, Robin Wood, and la Lampe D’allardin (with a fun 6a+ crux) You can walk off but its a great place to work on your efficiency mutli-pitch abseiling. You can sometimes jump over to other routes if you want to avoid a pitch, just be aware of getting in the way of others.

And Neighbouring on Floria:

Asia (5+) If that is too easy and you’re feeling strong. There is a also Fraise de Boatches (6a?), and the exhilerating Neiges de Kilamanjero (spicy second pitch- technical and not easy but well bolted.)
Frisson Roche on the face of Brevant. (Well bolted, 5/5+, with 2 pitches of 6a well protected. Final pitch is one of the most lovely corners in the world and the walk off is 5 minutes to the telecabine. Can get crowded.

Cosmique Arrete (must be comfortable on Crampons and know self arrests etc….) – Trad, occasional bolts and pitons and bolted abseils

Aiguille De L’M (trad- classic route. Long walk in and is now a bit polished but fun.)

Nabot Leon on the Blaitiere (mostly bolted, you might want to bring some cams/aliens and slings.)

Arrette de papillion on the Peigne – One of the most gorgeous and fun routes in the Valley- very exposed and airy in places but generally not too hard climbing. About f5+ trad. Note that the only escape is after the letterbox section, so be aware of time and the weather. Abseil and scramble descent then cross a small glacier/snowfield.

Dalle D/Amone (the Amone Slab) in Val Ferret. 6A+. can be run out but if you like slabs this is a classic. Walk off from the top.

Tcaio Godillo in the Col du Colombiere (f6a be aware when you abseil that the rappells are on a different route next to yours and that the limestone has sharp ridges sharp in places.)

Crags: There are loads of great crags around. Check out – Gaillands, Vallorcine, Bouldering near the Cremerie at Grands Montets and at Les Bossons, Le Fayet. Harder crags include: Foron, Pont des Gets, and Gietroz. Great for a day when its not great up high.

Harder but great routes:

Rebuffat on the Eperon of the Midi (6a+ roof has a piton and a sling usually. Finish on the Cosmiques arrete. The rest is about a f5 / 5+. The start has changed due to the lower snow line and begin often to the left along a series of crumbly ledges for about 10 metres.

Rebuffat on the Sud Face of the Midi (The direct start is a lot harder now as the glacier level is lower. Many start to the right of the roof near the Contamines start and traverse. Short abseil onto viewing deck of the midi station.)

Article courtesy of MountainGirl – Climbing for Women

More about climbing here.

Grade AD 4a This climb is deservedly extremely popular. Short, safe and exhilarating, on good quality rock, it is a perfect introduction to Alpine mixed climbing.

Height 150m climb to 3770m

High season June to September

Equipment 50m rope, half set of nuts, 4 quickdraws, 4 slings

Access Reached from, and ending at the top of the Aiguille du Midi téléphérique.

Route From the téléphérique station, walk down the snowy crest ( can be icy so crampons and axe advisable) to the Col du Midi.

Go around the rock spur to the foot of the Cosmiques Rid.

From there climb the snow slope to the right of the ridge- narrow in places. Move rightwards to reach the inclined slabs. Climb to the first gendarme of the subsidiary summit 3731m and proceed along the crest of the ridge to the second.

From here the route descends slightly while traversing. This is exposed and it can be advisable to abseil. Continue on to pass between two rock walls and then abseil 30m down a small gully. Traverse across to a tower where you climb a slightly awkward chimney (4a) to a substantial ledge on the right.

Go over a short snow slope to regain the ridge and from here you can choose either to go right round a second tower or left around it by descending a split in the tower to a snowy crest. Proceed along the ridge to the final step. Climb a short, slabby wall (4c) to a small ledge, then up a few metres either by a chimney on the left or a crack on the right to a platform.

Traverse left and step down to reach a large corner/ chimney. Climb this in 2 pitches (3c/4a) to a final snowy shoulder and the applause of the crowd as you reach the viewing platform. Bask in the glory and have a well- earned beer!

Descent Aiguille du Midi téléphérique.

Related Blogs

• Related Blogs on Climbing in Chamonix
• Ian Jackson: “Climbing’s My Demon And My Cure” British Mountaineer …
• 11-13 July 2008: World Climbing Championships in Chamonix
• Alpine Climbing Conditions – 02/08/08

• Related Blogs on cosmiques arete
• Short clip of the Arete des Cosmiques
• Afternoon Aguille Midi
• Chamonix Couloir Action
• Cosmiques Arete
• Papillons Arete + Eperon de Cosmiques

Mont Blanc is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world and the highest mountain in Western Europe.

As such, it is an extremely popular mountain to climb. It was first climbed on 8th August 1786 by Jaques Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard. It now sees hundreds of ascents each day in high season, over 20,000 each year.

Mont Blanc lies between the Haute-Savoie region of France and the Aosta Valley in Italy. The question of where exactly the summit lies is a source of controversy between the two countries. Although the border is officially at the highest point of Mont Blanc, the two countries tend to place the summit within their own boundaries on maps.

The exact height of the mountain is a little variable dependent on the amount of snowfall but is generally cited as between 4807m and 4810m.The summit snow and ice is between 15m and 23m deep.

Readily accessible from the town of Chamonix which lies at its foot, it is a sought-after prize for most mountaineers.

However, it is frequently underestimated. Although the technical difficulties are never very high, it is a long and arduous climb at high altitude. As such, a good level of fitness is required and prior acclimatization is essential over a period of several days.

High Season

The most popular times to climb Mont Blanc are in July and August as this is when the most consistent conditions are to be found. This does mean, however, that the routes will be crowded.

If there are good conditions in June, this is also a good time to go but can still be fairly busy.

The weather in September is less predictable but the mountain is slightly quieter.

By mid-late October the huts are closed as the weather is often very unstable and the days are short. Ski ascents can be made in spring –from April to mid June, when the huts then re-open early to mid-June for the summer season.

Typical Agenda

Allow 6 days
- day 1 école de Glace on the Mer de Glace or Grands Montets
- days 2,3,4 spend 2 nights in a hut for purpose of acclimatisation
- day 5 go to Cosmiques/ Gouter/ Tête Rousse hut
- day 6 summit Mont Blanc and return to valley

Climbs from the huts:

The routes and difficulty of the climbs vary according to which hut you stay in.
It is advisable to book your hut as far in advance as possible but if they are full, last minute cancellations are frequently available.

Discounts are available for BMC and Alpine Club members – card necessary.

There are 3 main huts on the French side that are used.

-Cosmiques hut 3613m.

+33 (0)4 50 54 40 16

145 places -Very well run hut that does not overbook.

Easily accessible in 45mins from the top of the Aiguille du Midi lift.

Descend the snowy crest from the lift station and then walk west under the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. Followed by a short snowy climb to the hut.

Breakfast at 1am.

On leaving the hut, walk downhill to the Col du Midi 3530m. Climb for 2 hours to the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Descend a short way to Col Maudit then climb more steeply up the North Face of Mont Maudit (can be avalanche prone) – 2 hours .The final 80-100m to the shoulder is steeper, can be icy and is usually a bottleneck. From there an exposed, descending traverse leads to Col Brenva in half an hour. From there it is 2-2½ hours to the summit. The steepest part is the initial climb up Mur de la Côte which can also be icy.

Total time 6-8 hours to summit.

-Goûter hut 3817m.

Tel. 04 50 54 40 93

76 places – Reservation difficult as this is the most popular hut to stay in.There is some chance of last minute cancellations so worth calling a day or so before you wish to stay if have not managed to book in advance.

It is often grossly overcrowded and is uncomfortable to sleep at that altitude but affords a shorter summit day.

The hut is reached by walking from the Nid d’Aigle – the terminus of the Mont Blanc tramway. This is most easily accessed from the Bellevue cablecar in Les Houches.

This takes you past the Tête Rousse hut after 2½ hours. Shortly afterwards you cross the Grand Couloir which will be snowy early season (june-july). There is significant stone and rockfall danger here – helmet essential

From there it is a 2½ hour scramble with some fixed cables to reach the Goûter hut.

Breakfast at 2am.

On leaving the hut, traverse the flat Aiguille du Goûter then go up the NW slope of the Dôme du Goûter. Traverse below the summit of the Dôme du Goûter on the left side to reach the Col du Dôme and then go up to the Vallot hut 4360m – 3 hours. From here the route more or less sticks to the crest of the Bosses ridge to reach the summit after a further 2 hours.

Total time 5 hours.

-Tête Rousse hut 3167m

+33 (0)4 50 58 24 97

68 places

This hut was built in 2005.

Access as described above for Goûter hut but reached 2½ hours earlier on the route.

Breakfast at 1am.

Shortly after leaving the hut cross the Grand Couloir (less stonefall danger as leaving early in the morning).

The route then goes up a broken rocky spur direct to the Goûter hut – 2½ hours. There are sections of cable which can be used as a handrail.

Route to summit same as described from the Goûter hut.

Total time 8 hours.

Acclimatisation

Minimum 2 nights stay in huts of at least 2,700m during few days prior to climb with ascents to higher altitudes during the day up to at least 3,500m.

Equipment

Even on the hottest of summer days, Mont Blanc temperatures can be very low with significant windchill factor. It is recommended that you take a minimum of:

- waterproof jacket and trousers -2 fleeces -thermal top and trousers – gloves and mittens -hat and neoprene face guard (or balaclava) – ski goggles and sunglasses (min cat 3) – 4 season leather/plastic mountain boots – gaiters – headtorch – suncream – lipsalve – axe, crampons, harness, helmet – 1 litre of water – energy food – for the hut it is nice to have earplugs and sheet sleeping bag – small first aid kit (paracetamol and blister kit essential)

Book List

Mont Blanc Massif volume I ………..Lindsay Griffin
Snow, Ice and Mixed volume 2 ……..François Damilano

Photo above by delp