There’s a new walking book out for the Chamonix area.

Mont Blanc Wanderings is a hand picked selection of stunning hikes and treks from the Chamonix valley, coupled with beautiful full colour photographs.

The routes described should suit most people with a reasonable level of fitness, and present no technical difficulty.

The trails cover high altitude terrain, offering superb views over the entire Mont Blanc massif.

From rural farming grounds to sweet alpine meadows to rugged, rocky terrain, the scenery is ever-changing yet remains spectacular.

The author Natalie Jennings was born and bred in the Welsh valleys before setting off in search of ‘real’  mountains.

She has lived in Chamonix in the French Alps for over ten years and currently works freelance as a translator and interpreter.

Happy Hiking!

As you ascend towards the heavens past the Chamonix Aiguilles while riding in a cable car that whisks you hurriedly towards the summit of the Aiguille du Midi, you are consumed by the breathtaking views of the Alps and the valley below. As you exit the cable car, you will notice that this location, Plan d’Aiguille, is the half way station for the cable car as well as the starting area for your walking route – Grand Balcon Nord. It has a total length of 6.5km, total ascent of 150m, total descent of 540m and should take around 2.5 hours to complete.

Starting from Plan d’Aiguille, the walking route follows a northeasterly path right along the Grand Balcon Nord or the northern balcony path. And because the grand balcon nord walking trail hovers around the 2000 meters above sea level mark, the trail is very popular since it provides spectacular high level views of the surrounding landscape and is relatively easy to access for walkers of all abilities.

Marked trails leading from the cable car mid station lead you towards a section of the trail that will make you turn your head towards the sky to take in the towering, brownish-black and snow covered Chamonix Aiguilles mountains. Then, you will continue to make your way down the trail until you come upon the upper station of the Montenvers Mountain Railway.

If you are fortunate enough to experience the grand balcon walking trail in early summer, you are in for a treat. The path, while looking mostly like a rock garden, has flowering shrubs and flowers of all kinds that provide dashes of intense colors as far as the eye can see. As you continue upon your journey along the grand balcon trail, you will experience a relatively straightforward path that will snake along the mountainside for quite some time.

And as you progress along the trail, you will inevitably come across spectacular views of the Aiguilles Rouges with the Chamonix valley below. You will ultimately come to the junction of two paths in the Montenvers area of the trail. Your choices are either to head towards the Montenvers station or to take the route over Signal Forbes. Taking the Signal Forbes path would be your best bet.

This path will begin to slowly ascend over 150m in total as you hike along zigzagging trails on your way up. As you approach the crest of the trail, you are rewarded handsomely with awe-inspiring views of the Aiguille Verte. And even though walking down into Montenvers seems like a good idea, don’t do it. Why not? Because, by using a little more physical effort, you can make it up to the viewpoint of the Signal Forbes trail. This is where you can behold the spectacular views of the Mer de Glace or Sea of Ice below you.

There are always certain things you must take into consideration before deciding to walk along the grand balcon trail. For example, it can be fairly crowded in fair weather during the peak season. If you plan on taking lots of pictures, know that the afternoon is the best time in which to take photographs. Give yourself enough time to catch the last train from Montenvers Chamonix because the walk down can be tedious. Snow may also cover parts of the trail early or late in the season. And finally, when the weather is good, the cable cars have very long wait times so arrive there as early as possible.

Le Petit Balcon’s path begins surrounded by lush, green forests. It is located on the southern side of the Aiguilles Rouges, which is the chain of peaks that rise up and form Chamonix valleys northern wall. Le Petit Balcon is an absolutely stunning path indeed that meanders through tall green trees while providing grand views of the valley below. As you approach the highest location on the walking trail, it is possible to see up to the highest points of Mont Blanc Massif located on the valleys southern side. On low cloud days, it is an amazing sight to see the majestic mountain peaks protruding through the grey clouds that engulf them.

Did you know that Chamonix is known the whole world around for its cable cars and lifts that are able to bring you right up to massive glaciers and mountains? And that walks originating from cable car routes and stations are available for a lot of the year. Of course, with so many lifts and cable cars to choose from, it can be quite confusing to know which cable car routes are best suited to walkers and hikers. Well, the Brevent, Le Tour/Le Balme and the Plan d’Aiguille are quite sufficient for walkers and hikers. Also, the Montenvers offers an interesting walk to the Plan d’Aiguille while Flegere and the Index provide individuals with the opportunity to participate in a beautiful and popular walk to Lac Blanc.

Now as far as weather in the Alps is concerned, you need to be prepared and mindful the whole year around. In fact, summer storms can become so violent so quickly that you are often caught off guard with no place to hide. And quite commonly, rock climbers, hikers and walkers experience what seems like an almost instantaneous covering of snow on their hiking or climbing trails making conditions too hazardous to continue on in. There are also electrical storms that began originally as convection clouds over the plains area of the Chamonix valley. As these storms intensify, you can audibly hear static electricity and buzzing noises all around you. Lightning strikes can occur when the electrical storms hit. And remember that all of this terrifying weather phenomenon can easily happen on what starts out as a pleasant weather day.

Distance: 12km

Time: 5–51⁄2hrs

Start altitude: 1251m

High point: Col de Balme, 2204m

Height gain: 953m

Height loss: 925m

Map: LS 5003 Mont Blanc–Grand Combin 1:50,000 or LS 282T Martigny 1:50,000

Accommodation: Le Tour (1hr 30mins) – hotel, gîte; Col de Balme (3hrs) – refuge; Le Peuty (5hrs 15mins) – gîte, camping; Trient – dortoirs

Transport options: Bus (Argentière–Le Tour); Gondola and chairlift (Le Tour–Charamillon–Les Grandes Otanes near Col de Balme)

Alternative route: Col de Balme–Col de la Forclaz via Refuge Les Grands-Dessus

For a first full day’s walking this is a convenient and relatively undemanding stage. There’s plenty of height to gain and lose, but the crossing of Col de Balme is not at all severe and walkers fresh from the UK have an opportunity to get into their stride with ease. Views on the way to the pass, when you look back through the length of the Chamonix valley, are dominated by Mont Blanc and its aiguilles, while the col itself gives a magnificent vision of the Monarch of the Alps shining its great snow dome and sending long glacial tentacles into the valley.

The Swiss frontier runs through Col de Balme, so all the descent (and the rest of the walk to Zermatt) will be within Swiss territory. Vistas of Mont Blanc are shunted into memory, although in days to come sudden surprise views will draw the eye back to the west and that great crown of snow.

The valley of Trient into which you descend is green and pastoral. There are no major peaks nearby, of either snow or rock, to match the grandeur of France behind you, but the scene from the col is not short of beauty, for to the north a line of mountains indicates the crest of the Bernese Alps, with Les Diablerets, Wildhorn and Wildstrubel just discernible.

Much of this stage is shared with the route of the TMB, so you will no doubt meet plenty of other walkers during the day.

The Route

From the centre of Argentière take the road to the right (east), to pass the village post office and Office du Tourisme, and cross the river (l’Arve) with the Glacier d’Argentière (1) seen directly ahead. At a junction of streets bear right into the Chemin de la Moraine, and you will come to the line of the Mont Blanc Express railway. Pass beneath this and onto a track going ahead towards woods where you join the Petit Balcon Nord. Shortly after passing a chalet on the right, you’ll see another set back on the left. On coming to a second chalet on the left, take the path beside it which joins the main Petit Balcon Nord at a signed junction. Turn left towards Le Tour.

Rising steadily among trees you will come to a path junction (30mins) where you continue straight ahead. In another 10mins there’s a second junction where again you keep ahead. Emerging from the woods the path narrows and gradually loses height with the village of Le Tour seen below. Cross a stream draining the Glacier du Tour and walk on into

LE TOUR (1453m, 1–11⁄2hrs) Accommodation: Chalet Alpin du Tour [CAF gîte] 87 places, open April to end of September (Tel: 04 50 54 04 16, www.clubalpin.com); Hotel l’Olympique. Restaurant, water supply, public toilets, telephone, bus to Chamonix, gondola lift to Charamillon.

If you prefer to take the easy way to Col de Balme, ride the gondola lift to Charamillon, then take the chairlift to Les Grandes Otanes, from which a short contouring path leads to the col.

Walk to the roadhead by the Télécabin Le Tour Col de Balme.

The main path to Col de Balme passes along the right-hand side of the gondola lift station, and continues ahead on a broad track/ski piste. About 5mins from the gondola station a signed path strikes ahead to the right and twists up to the middle station of the gondola lift (CHARAMILLON 1850m, refreshments).
Above Charamillon a path branches to the right away from the main track on the way to the popular Albert Premier refuge, first passing the Gîte d’Alpage (20 places, open mid-June to mid-September (Tel: 04 50 54 17 07), refreshments). Ignore this option and maintain direction; when the track forks by a ski tow continue ahead, but 2mins later take a steep path which rises above the track. The gradient soon eases and the path gains height without undue effort to reach the

CHALET-REFUGE COL DE BALME (2) (2204m, 3–31⁄2hrs) The refuge has 26 places (Tel: 04 50 54 02 33). It stands on the unmarked Franco/Swiss border and purchases can be made in either Euros or Swiss francs.

The col makes a wonderful viewpoint. To the south stands the snowy mass of Mont Blanc (3) and its guardian aiguilles – Aiguille Verte and Drus being predominant in that view, while the Aiguilles Rouges line the right-hand wall of the valley.

Groups of ebullient walkers occupied all the seats outside the refuge, and most of those inside too. To a man (and a woman) they were all tackling the TMB and enjoying the cameraderie such a sociable walk inspires, greeting each new arrival with rude remarks, having established an easy rapport during the days in which they’d shared the same paths, valleys and passes. They were heading south on the closing stages of their classic walk, while we were going in the opposite direction, against the tide, as it were. I looked back at Mont Blanc, then ahead to a grid of distant ridges that both teased and enticed. Col de Balme held the key to a wonderland.

There are three ways in which to continue from Col de Balme: i] the direct route to Trient via Le Peuty described as the main Stage 2; ii] Alternative Stage 2 via Refuge Les Grands; and iii] a slightly longer option (2hrs 15mins) by way of L’Arolette, Catogne and Les Tseppes – this is described in the boxed section at the end of this Stage.

Veer left beyond the refuge to a signpost at a footpath junction, then branch right to begin the descent. Trient is 2hrs from the col. The path goes down in long loops at first (a water supply at the hut of Les Herbagères), but once you enter forest the way steepens with tighter zig-zags. It brings you into a rough pastureland where you bear left to cross the Nant Noir stream and walk down to

LE PEUTY (1328m, 5–51⁄4hrs) self-catering (meals in Trient) gîte accommodation and camping at Refuge du Peuty, 37 places, open mid-June to mid-September (Tel: 027 722 09 38).

Continue down the road for a further 10mins to the village of

TRIENT (4) (1279m, 5–51⁄2hrs) Dortoir accommodation at Relais du Mont Blanc, 70 places, open all year (Tel: 027 722 46 23, http://montblanc.site.voila.fr); Le Café Moret ((027 722 27 07); and Gîte La Gardienne, 21 places, open all year (Tel: 027 722 12 40, www.lagardienne.ch). Small food store (limited opening) attached to Relais du Mont Blanc, PTT, Postbus link with Martigny. Office du Tourisme, 1921 Trient (Tel: 027 722 19 29, www.trient.ch).

Note: In case of difficulty finding accommodation here, try Hotel du Col de la Forclaz 3km uphill to the east; 40 places in bedrooms and dortoir (Tel: 027 722 26 88, www.coldeforclaz.ch).

Alternative Stage: Col de Balme–Trient, via L’Arolette, Catogne and Les Tseppes

This descent to Trient from Col de Balme is slightly longer, a little more demanding, but more scenically interesting than the standard direct route described above.

Arriving at Col de Balme walk past the refuge and 1min later, where the path forks with the direct route to Trient branching right, continue ahead. The path curves round the hillside and forks again. Take the right branch, which rises gently and, 30mins from the refuge, brings you onto the 2330m saddle of L’Arolette to gain a view ahead of the distant Emosson dam backed by Mont Ruan.

The path now descends the north side of the pass, sweeping down and across the steep grass flank of the Croix de Fer. On coming to a signed junction at 2110m above the alp buildings of Catogne, fork right on a path which contours across pastures and into larchwoods with a view across the Trient gorge. The way turns a spur into the Trient valley, from where you look through the length of the upper valley to the Aiguille du Tour flanked by the glaciers of Trient and des Grands. The descent into the valley takes you briefly into forest, then you gain another, but even better, view of the same mountain and its glaciers. About 5mins later pass the two timber chalets of Les Tseppes (1932m), and shortly after re-enter forest for a steep, knee-crunching descent. At another junction within the forest (1750m) bear left, and 20mins later come onto a track which you cross directly ahead to continue the descent. The same track is rejoined lower down, but once again you cross directly ahead onto a raised footpath that brings you onto the track once more. Follow this to the right, pass some chalets, cross a river and come onto a road at the upper part of TRIENT (2hrs 15mins from Col de Balme). For accommodation in the village bear left. For Col de la Forclaz take the upper road.

Places or Features of Interest Along the Way

1: GLACIER D’ARGENTIÈRE

This major icefield flows from the great basin formed by the curving ridges of the Tour Noir, Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Triolet, Les Courtes and Les Droites. Mont Dolent is the lynchpin of this system, and on its summit the frontiers of France, Italy and Switzerland meet.

2: CHALET-REFUGE COL DE BALME

Standing astride the Franco/Swiss border on the Col de Balme with a magnificent view of the Mont Blanc range (‘If that view does not thrill you you are better away from the Alps,’ wrote R.L.G. Irving), the refuge – or rather its predecessors – was for centuries a bone of contention between the men of Chamonix and those of Swiss Valais, and was burnt down and rebuilt several times. It’s interesting to note that the col is measured at 2191m by the French, and 2204m by the Swiss. As the refuge is entered from the Swiss side, it’s reckoned to be in Swiss territory, although its telephone number is French.

3: MONT BLANC

As the highest mountain in Western Europe Mont Blanc (4807m) has been the focus of mountaineering attention for more than two centuries. In 1760 wealthy Geneva scientist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–99) offered a prize for the first man to reach its summit. Several attempts were made in the ensuing years, but it was not until 8 August 1786 that Michel-Gabriel Páccard, the Chamonix doctor, and Jacques Balmat, a crystal hunter, reached the top. (Saussure himself made the third ascent in 1787.) Tourist ascents followed, then attention was focused on neighbouring aiguilles and new routes to already claimed summits. Among the outstanding developments mention should be made of the Brenva Ridge in 1865, Peuterey Ridge (1927), Route Major (1928), Gervasutti Pillar (1951) and Central Pillar of Freney in 1961. But whilst practically every face, pillar, ridge and couloir has been explored, Mont Blanc still retains its charisma, and to non-mountaineers no less, its undisputed grace and beauty. (For a history of the mountain, see Savage Snows by Walt Unsworth [Hodder & Stoughton, 1986].)

4: TRIENT

A small village set in a narrowing of the valley of the same name below La Forclaz. In spite of its being the first Swiss community met on this walk, it is nevertheless very French in both architecture and atmosphere. Its location is ideal for tackling the crossing of either the Fenêtre d’Arpette or Col de la Forclaz and Bovine route for the next stage to Champex.

BUY THE GUIDEBOOK

This article is part of a chapter from ‘Chamonix-Zermatt The Walker’s Haute’ Route by Kev Reynolds (ISBN: 781852845131) and is available direct from Cicerone Press.

Chamonix to Zermatt, Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn. What pictures these names conjure in the minds of those of us who love mountains! The two greatest mountaineering centres in the world – one overshadowed by the highest massif in Western Europe and the other by the most famous, if not the most elegant and most instantly recognised, of all mountains.

Chamonix to Zermatt, Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn – recipe for a visual feast!

To walk from one to the other is to sample that feast in full measure; a gourmet extravaganza of scenic wonders from first day till last, and each one (to carry the metaphor to its limit) a course that both satisfies and teases the palate for more.

The Walker’s Haute Route does just that.

In two weeks of mountain travel you will be witness to the greatest collection of 4000m peaks in all the Alps and visit some of the most spectacular valleys. There you’ll find delightful villages and remote alp hamlets, wander flower meadows and deep fragrant forests, skirt exquisite tarns that toss mountains on their heads, cross icy streams and clamber beside glaciers that hang suspended from huge buttresses of rock. You’ll traverse lonely passes and descend into wild, stone-filled corries. There will be marmots among the boulders and ibex on the heights. And your days will be filled with wonder.

It’s more demanding than the well-known Tour du Mont Blanc, for the route is over 180km long; it crosses eleven passes, gains more than 12,000m in height and loses more than 10,000m. But each pass gained is a window onto a world of stunning beauty.

There’s the Mont Blanc range and the chain of the Pennine Alps, one massif after another of snowbound glory: Mont Blanc itself, with its organ-pipe aiguilles; the overpowering mass of the Grand Combin; Mont Blanc de Cheilon and Pigne d’Arolla, Mont Collon and Tête Blanche and the huge tooth of Dent Blanche. There’s the Grand Cornier, Ober Gabelhorn and Weisshorn and stiletto-pointed Zinalrothorn; then there’s the Dom and Täschhorn, Breithorn and Matterhorn and all their crowding neighbours sheathed in ice and snow to act as a backcloth to dreams; a background landscape to the Walker’s Haute Route, contender for the title of Most Beautiful Walk in Europe.

THE WALKER’S HAUTE ROUTTE

The original High Level Route (Haute Route), from Chamonix to Zermatt and beyond, was developed more than a hundred years ago. But this was very much a mountaineer’s expedition, for it traced a meandering line among the great peaks of the Pennine Alps by linking a number of glacier passes. James David Forbes, scientist and active mountaineer, pioneered an important section of this in 1842 when he crossed Col d’Hérens, Col de Fenêtre and Col du Mont Collon. Alfred Wills also made early explorations, but it was mainly a joint effort by other members of the Alpine Club, notably J. F. Hardy, William Mathews, Francis Fox Tuckett, F. W. Jacomb and Stephen Winkworth and their guides, that saw a complete High Level Route established in 1861. This route went from Chamonix to Col d’Argentière, then via Val Ferret, Orsières, Bourg St Pierre, Col de Sonadon, Col d’Oren, Praraye, Col de Valpelline and on to Zermatt.

The following year (1862) Col des Planards was discovered, which led to Orsières being by-passed, thereby allowing a better line to be made in the link between the northern edge of the Mont Blanc range and that of the Pennine Alps.

This High Level Route was, of course, primarily a summer mountaineering expedition that was no small undertaking, especially when one considers the fact that at the time there were no mountain huts as we know them now and all supplies had to be carried a very long way. But with the introduction of skis to the Alps in the late 19th century a new concept in winter travel became apparent, and with the first important ski tour being made in the Bernese Alps in 1897, and the subsequent winter ascent of major mountains aided by ski (Monte Rosa in 1898, Breithorn 1899, Strahlhorn 1901, etc), it was clearly only a matter of time before the challenge of the High Level Route would be subjected to winter assault.

In 1903 the first attempt was made to create a ski traverse of the Pennine Alps, and although this and other attempts failed, in January 1911 Roget, Kurz, Murisier, the brothers Crettex and Louis Theytaz succeeded in establishing a winter route from Bourg St Pierre to Zermatt.

Having successfully hijacked the original High Level Route as the ski-touring route par excellence, and having translated its British title as the Haute Route, the journey from Chamonix to Zermatt came to be seen almost universally as a winter (or more properly, a spring) expedition; a true classic that is, understandably, the focus of ambition for many experienced skiers and ski-mountaineers today.

But there’s another Chamonix to Zermatt high level route that is very much a classic of its kind; a walker’s route that never quite reaches 3000m on any of its passes, that requires no technical mountaineering skills to achieve, avoids glacier crossings and yet rewards with some of the most dramatic high mountain views imaginable. This is the Chamonix to Zermatt Walker’s Haute Route.

It leads comfortably from the base of Mont Blanc to the Swiss frontier at Col de Balme, and from there down to Trient following the route of the Tour of Mont Blanc or one of its variantes. The next pass is Fenêtre d’Arpette leading to Champex, and from there down to the junction of Val d’Entremont and Val de Bagnes, then curving round the foot of the mountains to Le Châble. Avoiding Verbier a steep climb brings you to Cabane du Mont Fort, and continues high above the valley heading south-east before crossing three cols in quick succession in order to pass round the northern flanks of Rosablanche.

From Cabane de Prafleuri the route heads over Col des Roux and along the shores of Lac des Dix, then on to Arolla by one of two ways: Col de Riedmatten or the neighbouring Pas de Chèvres via Cabane des Dix. Arolla leads to Les Haudères and up to La Sage on a green hillside above Val d’Hérens in readiness for tackling either Col de Torrent or Col du Tsaté. Both these cols give access to Val de Moiry and its hut perched in full view of a tremendous icefall, from where the crossing of Col de Sorebois takes the walker into Val de Zinal, the upper reaches of the glorious Val d’Anniviers. From Zinal to Gruben in the Turtmanntal the route once again has two options to consider: either by way of Hotel Weisshorn or Cabane Bella Tola and the Meidpass, or by the more direct Forcletta. After leaving Gruben a final climb to the ancient crossing point of the Augstbordpass leads to the Mattertal. A long but easy valley walk to Zermatt is the basic final stage, but a two-day alternative and much better option adopts the dramatic Europaweg which makes a true high-level traverse of the east wall of the valley, with an overnight stay in the Europa Hut.

Every stage has its own special attributes, its own unique splendour, and all add up to a walk of classic proportions. It is, of course, a scenic extravaganza whose main features are the mountains that form the landscapes through which you walk.

First of these is dominated by the Mont Blanc massif with its towering aiguilles creating stark outlines against a backwash of snow and ice. Unbelievably high and seemingly remote from valley-based existence, the dome of the Monarch of the Alps glows of an evening, shines under a midday sun and imposes itself on panoramas viewed from cols several days’ walk from the crowded boulevards of Chamonix.

Then there’s the Grand Combin making a fair imitation of its loftier neighbour as it soars above the deeply cut Val de Bagnes. This too is a vast mountain whose presence is felt many days’ walk away, a grand block of glacial artistry that lures and entices from afar.

Heading round Rosablanche gives a taste of the other side of the mountain world, where gaunt screes and dying glaciers contrast the gleaming snows of its upper slopes. But then Mont Blanc de Cheilon returns the eye to grandeur on an epic scale, with Pigne d’Arolla and Mont Collon adding their handsome profiles for close inspection, while far off a first brief glimpse of the Matterhorn promises much for the future.

Val de Moiry holds many surprises with its tarns, dammed lake, majestic icefall and contorted glaciers, while Col de Sorebois and all the way down to Zinal is one long adoration of the Weisshorn. The head of Val de Zinal is so magnificent that one yearns to be able to explore further, but the route northward denies that opportunity yet still allows it to be seen in true perspective – a fabulous cirque giving birth to glaciers that have carved a valley of much loveliness.

The Turtmanntal takes you back to the 19th century. Above it once more rises the Weisshorn, along with Tête de Milon, Bishorn and Brunegghorn and a caliper of glaciers spilling into the valley.

One of the finest viewpoints of the whole walk comes an hour and a half below the Augstbordpass between Turtmanntal and Mattertal. The Mattertal is a long green shaft 1000m below. Across the valley shines the Dom with the tongue-like Riedgletscher hanging from it. Above to the right is the Brunegghorn with the Weisshorn beyond, while at the head of the valley is seen that great snowy mass which runs between Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn. But the Matterhorn itself keeps you waiting. Cross the valley at St Niklaus and climb steeply to Gasenried, then walk the length of the Europaweg and you’ll not only have the Bishorn and Weisshorn (yet again), but also the Schalihorn, Pointe Sud de Moming and Zinalrothorn, and the incomparable Matterhorn at last seen as it should be seen, from its roots above Zermatt to its cocked-head summit nearly 3000m above the valley. It’s a view worth waiting for. A view worth walking all the way from Chamonix to savour.

Despite its high passes, despite the fact that it runs across the grain of the country where deep valleys slice between the long outstretched arms of some of the highest mountains in Western Europe, the Chamonix to Zermatt route is not the sole preserve of the hardened mountain walker – although there are some taxing stages and a few delicate exposed sections that might give an understandable twinge of concern to first-time wanderers among the Alps. Most days lead into a touch of ‘civilisation’, albeit sometimes this civilisation might be just a small mountain village with few amenities. Every night there will be a lodging place with the possibility of meals provided, thereby making it unnecessary to carry camping or cooking equipment. Backpacking on this route is a choice, not an obligation.

Lodgings on the Walker’s Haute Route are in themselves very much a part of the mountain experience. In villages they allow you to capture some of the region’s culture. In remote mountain huts the wanderer is introduced to the climber’s world, with an opportunity to witness high alpine scenes that are normally privy only to the mountaineer.

Accommodation varies from hotels (there are luxuriously appointed hotels in certain villages on the route for those inclined and financially able to make use of them), to gîtes and basic refuges, and mattresses spread on the floor of communal dormitories in the attic of a pension or inn. But those planning to camp must understand that organised campsites are not to be found in all valleys, and that wild camping is officially discouraged in Switzerland.

Wherever lodgings (and campsites) are to be found along the route mention is made in the text. Similarly, wherever alternative methods of transport occur (train, bus, cable-car, etc), brief details are given. This is to aid any walkers who might fall behind their schedule due to bad weather, unseasonal conditions, sickness or just plain weariness.

The walk outlined in this guide may be achieved within a two-week holiday, while those with plenty of time available are given options which would extend the route and increase the overall experience. These options are outlined below. The longest stage demands 71⁄2 hours of walking, but there are several days of only 4 hours each. Some of the less demanding days could be amalgamated by fit trekkers in order to reduce the time required to complete the route, should they not have a full fortnight at their disposal, but it would be a pity to do so. This is a route that deserves to be wandered at a gentle pace; the very best of mountain holidays.

The first stage (Chamonix to Argentière – 2hrs) may be seen as a prelude. Should you arrive late in the day in Chamonix as you would, for example, if you flew from the UK to Geneva and travelled from there by train, then you would probably only have sufficient time to reach Argentière on foot that day.

However, if your travel arrangements get you to Chamonix at a reasonable time in the morning (on the overnight train from Paris, for example), it might be feasible to walk all the way to Trient, thus combining two stages for a 71⁄2–8hr day, thereby cutting a day off the overall route allocation.
Stage 12a (St Niklaus to Gasenried) links the original Haute Route with the new finish along the Europaweg, and takes about 11⁄2hrs walking time. However, it is not really practical to add this short stage to the demanding Augstbordpass crossing (Stage 12), nor to tack it on at the start of Stage 13. If you cannot allow a full day for this walk, it is possible to take a bus from St Niklaus to Gasenried itself – either at the end of Stage 12, or first thing on the morning of Stage 13.

One or two commercial trekking companies follow a large portion of the Walker’s Haute Route, but opt for public transport over some sections in order to allow a day or two in Zermatt at the end of a two-week holiday. This is an option available to the individual trekker too, of course. But again, it would be a shame to miss any single stage of this route, for each bears witness to the last and forms a unique link with the next.

BUY THE GUIDEBOOK

This article is part of a chapter from ‘Chamonix-Zermatt The Walker’s Haute’ Route by Kev Reynolds (ISBN: 781852845131) and is available direct from Cicerone Press.