This is an excellent peak with airy climbing on high quality rock with a fantastic 360 view from the top.
An early start is not necessary as it is in shade in the morning, though you may want to beat the crowds.
There are fixed ropes up most of the climb.
Length of climb – 4½ to 5½ hours from the hut
High season – June to September
Equipment – axe, crampons, rope, harness, slings, nuts, quickdraws
Access – from Torino hut
Hut is accessed from the Aiguille du Midi télépherique station and crossing the Vallée Blanche via the télecabine to Pt Helbronner.
From the hut, cross the glacier passing right of point 3615m to the base of the shoulder underneath the Dent du Géant. Go up the snowy couloir to the col on the left and then follow the ridge on right leading up to the face. Climb this in much the same line. As the angle lessens near the top, a large pillar can be seen.
Go around this on either side to the snowy arête beyond. This leads to a large rock called the Salle à Manger. Climb a large flake to the left of this and the slab above.
Traverse left here for 10m or so then climb about 30m up a couloir to a terrace on the left. From here, fixed ropes are on the exposed slabs leading to the SW summit.
To reach the NE summit, descend a short chimney and climb facing wall up to the top.
By abseil down the south face to the Salle à Manger.