Mont Tondu 3196m

posted in: climbing in chamonix | 0


Grade F+

This is an enjoyable and popular climb with a good viewpoint. Snowy slopes lead to a fore-summit called the Pain du Sucre, then the route follows a rocky ridge to the summit of Mont Tondu.

Length of climb 5 hours to summit, 5 hours descent

High season July to September

Equipment – axe, crampons, harness, slings, ice screws, quickdraws, rope


From the Conscrits hut, reached from the village of Cugnon near Les Contamines.


Day 1:

To the Conscrits hut.

From Les Contamines, go to the small village of Cugnon and park.

Take the well-marked trail up through the forest to the Tré-la-Tête hut (1970m). 2 hours.

From there, follow the path to the foot of the glacier (1 hour), then head towards the centre of the glacier and up towards the Tré-la-Grande seracs. Cross the flat area below the seracs towards the right bank.

Follow blue paint marks to climb to the hut. There are fixed ropes and hand lines in sections. 3 hours from Tré-la-Tête hut.

Day 2:

The route goes up the snowfield coming down from the Col des Chasseurs. Then climb through the rocky band on the right hand side and up easy slabs and scree to the snow just below the col. Climb the large rock section on the left and up the snowfield to a narrow rock ridge. Follow this exposed ridge to the summit of the Pain du Sucre.

From there continue along exposed, rocky ridge southwards to summit Mont Tondu.


Descend by the arête which leads to Col du Tondu then head in the direction of the Lacs Jovets on the right. Keep rightwards to find the path along the lakes and from there, head towards La Balme. Pass the refuge Nant-Blanc and finally reach the parking at Cugnon via the G.R.

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